“What?      Are you crazy?      Don’t do that.”

“DON’T DO THAT.”

This was the broker’s advice to Dieter Burkhalter when he said he wanted to  buy an old decommissioned lightship and move it to the Caribbean.

The Västra Banken, a former lightship from Sweden, at its new home in Grenada

Dieter and his wife Jana had bought land in Grenada with plans to open a marina, restaurant, and boutique hotel, and they were looking for a symbol – something unique to make their resort stand out.

Dieter surfed the internet and stumbled on a Swedish lightship that was for sale. Seeing  the  lightship,  Dieter  thought  she would be perfect – not too big, but spacious and charming. After telling Dieter he was crazy, the broker continued to dissuade him, saying it would be too hard to transport the lightship. Dieter was undeterred.

The broker sighed, “What do you want to pay?” Dieter closed the deal, and the adventure of refurbishing and transporting the lightship began.

Dieter Burkhalter starting the lightship’s engine.

The lightship’s name is Västra Banken #23. Västra Banken means “the west bank,” and she was the 23^rd of 37 lightships that Sweden built and deployed along Sweden’s coastline. Completed in 1900, the lightship briefly served two locations before being stationed in the Baltic Sea just north of Stockholm in 1923. She served until 1970.

Lightships (also known as “fireships” in Northern Europe) are floating lighthouses used in places  where  it  is  not  feasible to build a stationary lighthouse due to submerged reefs, sandbars, or treacherous harbors. Even though these lightships’ hulls were strong, the lightships were active only during the summer because of the dense ice floes that strained the anchor chains during the winter. Lightships anchored semi-permanently for six months from July to December and were towed to a safe harbor and stored until  the next year. The ship’s engine was only run to stabilize the lightship during heavy storms. Shipping mostly ceased during the winter because the navigational channels iced over.

Dieter Burkhalter’s first view of the lightship.

The ship’s log shows that six men manned the lightship working in three rotating shifts – 8 hours at watch, 8 hours doing community service such as cleaning, cooking, or maintenance, and 8 hours off for personal time and sleeping.

Just imagine working in cramped quarters with no running water, heat, electricity, no communication with the outside world, and never leaving the ship for six months. The men were strong and resilient, manually completing all jobs, including managing the heavy anchor chains. In later years, generators relieved some of the most strenuous tasks,  and  the men could pursue hobbies in their spare time like fishing, birdwatching, and making crafts.

Preparing the lightship to be hoisted onto the freighter.

Sweden built a permanent lighthouse at Västra Banken in 1970, and they decommissioned the lightship. The town of Oregrund bought the lightship and installed her in the harbor. Maintenance was costly, so the town removed the superstructure, including the lantern tower, installed it at the harbor as a museum, and sold the rest of the ship as scrap. In 1999, a private owner bought the lightship and moved her to Stockholm as a houseboat. The new owner installed a similar lantern house from Lightship Trelleborgs Redd #21, in the ship’s stern.

Dieter bought the Västra Banken in 2005, and she began a trek by tugboat from Stockholm to Rostock, Germany. Rostock is a famous port city with deep expertise in ship rebuilding. Because the shipbuilding  industry was in decline, it was much less expensive to haul and refurbish the lightship in Rostock than in other places.

Lowering the lightship off the freighter

Besides using the lightship as a symbol for the resort/marina, Dieter wanted to use the ship as a restaurant and provide convenient bathrooms for the yachts anchored in his marina, to protect and preserve the pristine bay. Dieter identified the specifications to restore the lightship and design the interior space.

It took seven months to rebuild the lightship. First, they stripped the boat to the metal ribs and removed five tons of scrap. They then removed all the paint and rust and repainted the hull five times, using over one ton of paint. They welded ten tons of steel plates to strengthen the hull. Then they built the kitchen, the washrooms, and created sewage tanks.

Next was hauling the lightship onto a freighter to transport her to Grenada. Using old documentation, Dieter estimated the lightship’s weight to be approximately 110 tons. They used two cranes to load the lightship onto the cargo ship MV Schippersgracht.

The engine room of the Västra Banken lightship

BEEP, BEEP, BEEP – each time they tried to lift the lightship, the crane’s safety alarms went off, indicating the load was too heavy. The stern was much heavier than the bow, further complicating the process. The cranes, licensed and insured for 240 tons, would not lift the overweight lightship. They tried lightening the lightship, but still, the cranes would not lift. After four hours of attempts, the Captain/Engineer agreed to turn off the safety system to raise the vessel if Dieter assumed any risk. Dieter agreed, and the cranes successfully and safely lifted the lightship. When  they  hauled her out, they realized she was 250 tons, over twice the projected weight. She was the heaviest ship the freighter’s cranes had ever lifted.

They welded the lightship to the freighter’s top deck after loading 20,000 tons of paper into the hold to stabilize the freighter. The voyage lasted two months, sailing from Rostock to Southampton, then Scotland, Baltimore, the Virgin Islands, Antigua, and finally arriving in Grenada. The Västra Banken #23 lightship arrived in St. Georges, Grenada, West Indies, in December of 2006. She unloaded within an hour, with no issues. From there, they towed her to her new home in Egmont Harbor and the site for Le Phare Bleu resort.

Initially, the lightship was the only restaurant at the emerging resort. Later, Dieter moved the primary restaurant onto land. Now the lightship serves drinks, light meals, and is a popular music venue.

Historic image of how the Västra Banken Lightship originally looked. (Courtesy Swedish Maritime Administration)

Removing the lightship from the freighter

Last year, Dieter wanted to see if he could get the almost 100-year-old engine running. Everyone wagered whether it would start and how long it would run. Bets placed, with beers in hand, sailors and friends crowded into the engine room to bear witness to the test. The first attempt to start the engine failed, but the team did not give up. After guiding the fly-wheel back to the start position and priming the fuel pump a second time, the first cylinder began chugging away. Cheers erupted in the engine room and on the top deck as the engine rumbled, and dark smoke spewed forth. Dieter believes this is one of the oldest running engines in the world.

Another view of removing the lightship from the freighter

Only one of the two cylinders ran, and the cooling system wasn’t working, so they stopped the engine at 12 minutes and 47 seconds. They will do some work and will try again later this year. You can watch the engaging video of their efforts on YouTube or Le Phare Bleu’s website.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi0EV_0YSFM

Towing the lightship from St. Georges in Grenada

The Västra Banken #23 proudly stands as a signature symbol for the resort. It surprises and delights visitors to see a Swedish lightship in Grenada. For those not knowledgeable about lightships, a series of informative panels in the lightship’s museum room teaches about lightships, keeping their history alive for new generations. Dieter’s lightship is a beacon for the resort and a tribute to the fascinating history of Swedish lightships.

(Unless otherwise noted, all photos are courtesy of Dieter Burkhalter)

ghostwritten by Candi Licence for SpiceMas Corporation Carnival Article

November 2019, for Truly Discover Grenada, Carriacou, and Petit Martinique (Annual Visitor’s Guide)

Are you going to be in Grenada, the second week of August?  Lucky you! SpiceMas, Grenada’s week-long Carnival extravaganza, showcases the best of Grenadian culture and traditions.  Plan to be enticed, enthralled, and engaged in non-stop fun.

This annual celebration, filled with many unforgettable events, is designed to make you want to be part of the action. Dance along with masqueraders costumed in feathers and sequins as they parade through the streets.  Cheer for your favorite artistes as they compete in fierce Soca, Calypso, and Steel Pan competitions to capture their Monarch crowns and bragging rights for the next year. Witness the enthralling and nail-biting beauty pageant to crown the National Carnival Queen. If you dare, step out of your comfort zone and join J’Ouvert, an over-the-top, raucous pre-dawn street parade.

Carnival in the Caribbean islands originated in the 18^th century when French colonial masters held extravagant feasts and elaborate masquerade (Mas) balls before Lent. Slaves, prohibited from participating in the festivities, created their own celebration combining their master’s events with African traditions and disguised themselves to avoid being recognized for some of the mockery they preformed.

Today, you can watch Traditional Mas bands preserve the historical roots of Carnival. The Jab Jab players entrance everyone. During slavery, plantation owners would often kill uncooperative slaves by throwing them into a boiling copper of molasses for refusing to work. Jab Jab players portray spirits of murdered slaves who return to haunt their masters. They cover themselves with molasses, tar or used motor oil, carry torches, whips, and chains.  They are present throughout Carnival, and they are the highlight of J’Ouvert, an early morning street parade filled with costumes, blaring Soca music, and rum.  You will never forget seeing these characters emerge from the darkness carrying torches and engage in outrageous antics.

Grenada is known worldwide for our amazing J’Ouvert, and it a highlight of Carnival.  Some dress up in their most outlandish costumes, while others use the opportunity to evoke the spirit of their ancestors, cover their faces and bear placards with thought provoking messages, all while dancing down the boulevard to pounding Soca music. Bumping against each other, they end up covered in oil, paint, or even famous Grenadian chocolate. You can safely watch from the sidelines or jump in, join the fun, and become part of the tapestry of color.

Traditional bands play essential roles in Carnival.  Wild Indians portray the indigenous people of Grenada. The magnificent Moko Jumbies are costumed characters who strut on 10 to 15-foot-tall stilts and tower over the crowds watching for evil. Maypole Dancers create intricate designs with their streamers. The Vieux Corps dress all in black and conceal their identity with painted masks. They are silent except for their tapping wooden shoes, portraying the loss of identity, status, and the complete invisibility of slaves. Short Knee bands are brilliantly costumed, masked characters with short pants, mirrors, and bells. They dance in intricate patterns, chant, demand loose change, and throw powder in the air to bless the crowd. Which traditional band will be your favorite?

More recent Carnival events join the Traditional Mas bands. You’ve seen pictures of Fancy Mas or Pretty Mas bands. Brimming with scantily clad dancers wearing elaborate feather headdresses and covered in sequined outfits, masqueraders saunter down the street in a dazzling parade. Be sure to take pictures of this spectacular display of costumes and dance moves.

Masqueraders parade through the streets after dark wearing neon headdresses and holding glowing torches during Monday Night Mas. Row upon row of players perform intricate patterns with their colorful props and fill the night with waves of pulsating colors. You will be dazzled by the masses of people, lights, and routines.

Music is an integral part of Grenadian culture. Original songs and melodies are composed specially for the SpiceMas competitions. If you love Soca, Calypso, and Pan, you are in for a treat.

Dimanche Gras is a fierce Calypso contest where lyrics highlight political and social issues that the country faces.  Calypso is sometimes called the poor man’s newspaper. The artistes leverage their songs to give voice to controversial topics like healthcare, education, or domestic abuse that may otherwise get ignored.

The Groovy and Soca Monarchs are awarded their coveted crowns based on specific judging criteria as well as crowd appeal.  Soca, sometimes called Power Soca, has the thumping, fast-paced rhythm that everyone associates with Carnival while Groovy has a slower-paced beat, and sweeter sound. The artistes stage extravagant spectacles using lights, smoke, dancers, and special effects to work the crowd to a frenzied fever. Sit in the stands to observe the action or be on the ground to be pulled into the madness of hundreds of ecstatic fans to scream and move to the music.

The Steel Pan competition, Panorama, is an explosion of sound and movement.  Bands with 40 to 100 players pound metal drums of all sizes and shapes to create intricate melodies usually based on the most popular Soca songs.  With braids flying and bodies swaying in time with the tune, these talented musicians fill the stadium and the surrounding areas with triumphant sounds.

If you love beauty and pageantry, the National Carnival Queen Show captivates and entertains.  Each contestant, already their parish queen, competes on talent, Carnival costume, swimwear, eveningwear, and their interview. Loyal fans fill the audience and they loudly encourage their favorite queen. Still it is the judges’ difficult task to determine who will reign as the National Carnival Queen for the next year.

Don’t miss one of the most engaging and captivating parts of Carnival, the Children’s Carnival Frolic. Young children participate in their own event that keeps Carnival relevant for the next generation and teaches cultural traditions. You’ll delight in seeing children as young as three enjoying themselves as they  cross the stage dressed in either Traditional Mas or Fancy Mas costumes in this precious and cherished tradition.

Carnival is a special time where Grenadians come together to celebrate culture, showcase tradition, and engage in a spectacular multiday event that consumes the entire country. Join us for the best party in the Caribbean, SpiceMas – Many Events, One Carnival.

By Candi Licence

Published February 25, 2016, by Women Who Live on Rocks

https://womenwholiveonrocks.com/to-hoard-or-not-to-hoard-that-is-the-question/

This is one of the newest ethical questions of my rock life. Hoard for self-preservation? Or not hoard for the greater good?

You see, though island life is wonderful, you quickly begin to live within limitations – particularly with if (and when) you can buy something you want or need. You often need to balance your desires with the noble action of restraining yourself for the whole (everyone else).

Here is a simple example: Dawn dishwashing soap. You non-rock readers are probably shaking your head, Dawn? Really? Yes, Dawn. REALLY! Local dishwashing soaps, like Squeezy, look a lot like Dawn but are thinner and not as effective. This means you use 3 times as much soap and still don’t get quite the desired effect: squeaky clean dishes.

In the absence of Dawn, I started trying all the brands. One day, I saw Ajax. It sounded like the great soap I remember from the States, so I triumphantly marched from the store to try it out, only to find that it is a heavily watered down version of what I know and no better than the local brand.

And then, one day, right there on the shelf, there were five (!) beautiful, big bottles of Dawn. Since I’m a newbie at island life, I only bought one bottle. And boy, was it SWEET! Clean dishes, a bottle that lasted, etc. You get the idea. Then, disaster struck.

(Read the rest of the article here.)